Ms. Reichl, who hired him at The Los Angeles Times and Gourmet, recalls his telling her in the 1980s that he had eaten every taco on Pico Boulevard. She survives him, along with their children, Isabel and Leon, and Mr. Gold’s brothers, Josh and Mark, who is the associate director of the Institute of the Environment and Sustainability at U.C.L.A. Gold was mission-driven as a critic, hoping his food adventures through the city’s many immigrant enclaves would help break down barriers among Angelenos wary of venturing outside their comfort zones. Mr. Jonathan Gold, left, chef Alvin Cailan of Eggslut and Ramen Champ, and chef Roy Choi of Kogi taste hot sauces to see if they can find a new favorite. A critic who imagines himself invisible may find it easy to be cruel.”. His only struggle: getting the food done on time (at work, Gold was also notorious for busting deadline). He was fired from the Met in 2018 over allegations of sexual misconduct. He was a trailblazer and he really did change the way that we all write about food.”. For a brief time, Mr. Gold thought of himself as a performance artist, too.“A naked performance artist, to be specific,” he told an interviewer. He leaves behind a spouse, Laurie Ochoa, and two children. In addition to his wife, Buffy, he was survived by their son Luke, along with three children from a previous marriage: Amy, Jeremy, and Mikael (a sound technician). The hallmark of his style, though, was the second-person voice. She grew up in Cupertino, Calif. Acclaimed Egyptian feminist Nawal Saadawi dies at age 89. He died of pancreatic cancer on Saturday, July 21, one week before his 58th birthday. He did. He once estimated that in the hunt for interesting new things to eat and write about, he put 20,000 miles on his green Dodge Ram 1500 pickup truck each year. He sought out places that felt emblematic of the city, and the resulting reviews bore a distinctly Los Angeles feel. A focus on catastrophic injury & wrongful death. He married Laurie Ochoa, currently an editor at the Los Angeles Times and former editor-in-chief of the LA Weekly; they had two children. News of Pulitzer prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold’s death at 57 came across my Twitter feed on Saturday as I sobered up from a birthday party of day drinking and gorging on fatty brisket at Urban Roots Brewery. Gold quickly became one of the most high-visibility journalists at The Times, headlining numerous annual events for the paper, including the Gold List, a one-night celebration of his top picks; the Taste, a three-day festival held over Labor Day weekend; and Food Bowl, a month-long citywide event that Gold created and spearheaded. His boundless curiosity and meticulous research — illustrated in “City of Gold” as he thumbed through a book on Chengdu in preparation for a review on a Sichuan restaurant — afforded him a credibility unmatched by other critics. That ease was enhanced by Gold’s unusual and frequent use of the second-person point of view, which made readers feel like they were there, sitting across the table from him: “If you have ordered it with cheese — you have to order it with cheese — a waiter scoops a big handful of white gratings over the top and bazookas it with a torch, creating several small fireballs along the way for effect until the mass breaks down into oozing, char-flecked rivulets that stretch from your chopsticks like pizza goo,” he wrote in his review of Koreatown galbi jjim specialist Sun Nong Dan. When catastrophic injury or a wrongful death tragedy strikes, you and your family need someone who will fight to help ensure you receive the compensation you deserve. “I didn’t even know what ‘food critic’ means,” she said. A classically trained musician who grew up listening to classical at home, Gold formed the punk rock bands Overman and Tank Burial, playing the cello. “You’re not going to find cooking like this anywhere else but L.A.”. “An ideal candidate has delicious food — that’s a given — but also a sense of purpose, a place within its community and the ability to drive the conversation forward,” he said of how he made his decision. “He wasn’t looking down his nose at the world, he was looking out from the table and trying to put restaurants, meals and cuisines in context. He used it prodigiously. In “City of Gold,” Sue Horton, an editor at Reuters, says of his use of the second person, “He’s forming a bond with the reader: You and I are people who eat deer penis.”, His prose was apparently as agonizing to produce as it was pleasurable to read. The music scene changes at a pace that can wear out a middle-aged writer, but food writers tend to improve as they get more meals under their belt. Jonathan Gold, one of the world’s most prolific and highly regarded restaurant critics, has died.He was 57. She was 79. And I used to love the version at Top Thai in Reseda.”. Gold loved throwing a good party, hosting holiday get-togethers and dinners for their tight-knit circle of friends at their home in Pasadena. Empathy, understanding, commensality: That’s what he brought to the game,” Meehan said. At UCLA, he studied art and music. “Jonathan’s humanity came through in his writing and in his many public appearances,” said Dr. Patrick Soon-Shiong, The Times’ owner and executive chairman. Chang graduated from the Medill School of Journalism at Northwestern University and has written for the St. Petersburg Times, the Oregonian and the Mercury News. Jonathan Gold was diagnosed with cancer early in July 2018. That deep context elicited respect, even awe, from chefs around the world. While a freshman at UCLA, he worked briefly at a kosher restaurant owned by Steven Spielberg's mother, Leah Adler. “Jonathan would have you over for dinner at 7:30 and you would arrive at 7:30 because that was the polite thing to do, and at 7:30 the first pot of water was starting to boil,” Silverton said. I like the khao soi at Spicy BBQ, although it is authentically inauthentic, if you know what I mean. “Jonathan didn’t write restaurant reviews, he wrote about who we are and how we feed each other. Gold moved back to The Times six years ago; he wrote more than 1,550 print stories for the daily newspaper during his career. Powers, who edited him at LA Weekly, called him “the Usain Bolt of being slow.”. I don’t know how he does it,” David Chang, of L.A.’s Majordomo and New York’s Momofuku empire, marveled in “City of Gold.” “I don’t know any Korean that knows more about Korean food than Jonathan Gold.”. For years, when the Los Angeles food scene was overlooked by critics who preferred dining in New York and San Francisco, Gold was quick to defend and champion it. Nonetheless, “I prayed that one day Jonathan Gold would walk in.”. It’s just hard to process.”, Tell us how Jonathan Gold shaped your L.A. experience ». Heralded for sensory prose that often read more like poetry than rote review, Gold penned evocative descriptions of food interwoven with a healthy sprinkling of pop culture references. Los Angeles Times and Pulitzer Prize-winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold has died at 57. Jonathon Gold: Birthdate: 1732: Birthplace: Sheffield, South Yorkshire, England, United Kingdom: Death: 1790 (57-58) Immediate Family: Son of John Gold and Sarah Gold Husband of Sarah Gold Father of Michael Gold. “I love going out to eat in the way a theater critic loves theater. Steven Spurrier set up a blind wine tasting in Paris in the 1970s to pit upstarts from Napa Valley against France’s best. “Before Tony Bourdain, before reality TV and ‘Parts Unknown’ and people really being into ethnic food in a serious way, it was Jonathan who got it, completely,” the writer and editor Ruth Reichl said. In 1986, Mr. Gold started a column for LA Weekly about the kinds of places where he liked to eat. That sort of isolation is not necessarily good for politics or civil life, but it is really good for food.”. It was not just tacos. Jonathan Gold in a scene from the film “City of Gold.”, Jonathan Gold in Laura Gabbert’s “City of Gold.”, Laurie Ochoa, left, and Jonathan Gold, center, in a scene from the movie “City of Gold.”. Fisher prize for distinguished writing in 2011 and, in May, the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award. Week by week, year by year, he built a reputation for finding restaurants that were virtually unknown outside the neighborhoods of immigrants. Some of his disclosures could make interesting reading. Yaphet Kotto, ‘Live and Let Die’ and ‘Alien’ star, dies. Gold redefined the genre, drawn more to hole-in-the-wall joints, street food, mom-and-pop shops and ethnic restaurants than he was to haute cuisine. Jonathan Gold City of Gold Documentary Like many other food and media luminaries over the past week, chef David Chang took time to address the death of food writing legend Jonathan Gold. always seemed better when he wrote about it,” the film critic John Powers, a friend of Mr. Gold’s, said. His disease had been diagnosed in early July 2018. Jonathan Gold, Pulitzer-Winning Restaurant Critic, Dies In this June 7, 2010 photo, Jonathan Gold, a food critic for L.A. Weekly, poses for a portrait at El Parian Restaurant in Los Angeles. Jonathan Gold was born on July 28, 1960 in Los Angeles, California, USA. 8:55 p.m.: This article was updated with additional reaction to Jonathan Gold’s death. The eldest of three boys, all born at UCLA in the 1960s, Gold spent his childhood attending Dodgers games and eating at Junior’s and Canter’s delis. Thinking of him not being here is just hard. Jonathan Gold and Phil Rosenthal of “I’ll Have What Phil’s Having” at The Taste in September 2017. It made them flip from being afraid and kind of not happy to be here to embracing it.”. Officially, it was finished when he allowed The Los Angeles Times to publish his photograph shortly before the release of “City of Gold” in 2015. His father, Irwin, was a probation officer assigned to supervise Roman Polanski and Charles Manson, among other offenders. In 2007, when he was writing for L.A. Weekly, Gold became the first restaurant critic to win the Pulitzer Prize for criticism. “A Ducasse disciple quitting his job at an haute-cuisine pop-up to serve charred octopus tacos on a downtown street corner?” he wrote of Guerrilla Tacos. The judges were shocked when the Napa wines won every category. Though somewhat shy, Gold was always happy to oblige, posing dutifully for selfies but also taking the time to engage, asking questions about where they were from and what they liked to eat. Gold and my wife Linzi Graham on the night we met him last year. Jonathan Gold’s Death. Gold’s death is the latest devastating loss for the food community, which is still reeling from the suicide last month of Anthony Bourdain, another acclaimed food writer. He died on July 21, 2018 in Los Angeles. But he and Ochoa missed L.A., and they returned a few years later. Gold followed, taking a position as New York restaurant critic at the magazine. Search Obituaries & Guest Books on Legacy.com, Honor a loved one, place an obituary notice, James Levine, conductor who ruled over New York’s Metropolitan Opera, dies at 77. Eventually he wrote about his fascination with the street in a 1998 article that began, “For a while in my early 20s, I had only one clearly articulated ambition: to eat at least once at every restaurant on Pico Boulevard, starting with the fried yucca dish served at a pupuseria near the downtown end and working methodically westward toward the chili fries at Tom’s No. awards & accolades. Jonathan Gold was honored with the James Beard Foundation’s award for best restaurant criticism Friday evening. When the actor Mindy Kaling asked Twitter for a pizza recommendation, she added: “Don’t Jonathan Gold me and tell me to go to the San Gabriel Valley.”. “He’ll drop in a heavy metal reference right next to a literature reference right next to talking about something your grandmother cooked two generations ago,” said his brother Mark Gold, associate vice chancellor for environment and sustainability at UCLA. He died at the age of 57. The Maryknoll Sisters nun supported the African nationalist struggle in the country that became Zimbabwe. Jonathan Goldsmith, Actor: Mamma Mia! Wherever he went, he was swarmed by restaurant owners hoping to entice him to come try their food and by loyal fans seeking pictures. Here We Go Again (2018), Hang 'Em High (1968) and The Streets of San Francisco (1972). Gold and Ochoa have two children, 23-year-old Isabel and 15-year-old Leon. His chin was capacious. If a new group of immigrants turned up in Los Angeles County, chances were good that he had already studied the benchmark dishes of their cuisine in one or more of the 3,000 to 5,000 cookbooks he owned. Gold covered hip-hop, grunge and the rise of gangsta rap in the 1980s, spending days in the studio with Eazy-E and the rest of the iconic group N.W.A and earning the nickname “Nervous Cuz” from Dr. Dre and Snoop Dogg. With his suspenders, slightly rumpled button-down shirt, mustache and mop of feathery strawberry blond hair, Gold was an easy-to-spot silhouette around town, peering through the order window of his favorite food trucks and sending chefs into near-panic when he would show up at restaurants unannounced. Gold’s Counter Intelligence column, which he began writing in 1986, was an indispensable dining guide for Angelenos, giving them a way of discovering their own city. When he reviewed David Chang’s new restaurant in Los Angeles, Majordomo, his thoughts on the cooking took up only slightly more space than his partial history of his dealings with Mr. Chang. The Gold family and that green pickup truck. He has been married to Barbara Jacobson Buky since 2006. Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning Los Angeles Times food writer who helped reinvent food writing by training his eye on Los Angeles’ street food and little-known treasures, has died … He rarely went to the subject of one of his reviews without stopping to try four or five other places along the way. He was 57. Henry Darrow, ‘High Chaparral’ actor who fought to expand roles for Latinos, dies. He oversaw contracts for San Onofre Nuclear Generating Station in San Diego County and led construction of San Francisco’s BART and the Channel Tunnel. I love sticking my hands in pots,” he said in an interview this year. If you are interested to learn why he meant so much to people, the documentary "City of Gold" beautifully captures his spirit. Steven Spurrier, vintner who turned the world on to Napa Valley wines with a single tasting, dies. Nawal Saadawi, an Egyptian feminist whose writings have long stirred controversy in an overwhelming conservative society, has died in Cairo, officials say. He was 57. “While most people might not go to places I write about, they know all the kinds of food that are available,” he said in a 2012 interview. Henry Darrow was the first Latino to play the dashing Zorro on television. His father was a probation officer, his mother a longtime high school librarian at L.A.’s Dorsey High School. Informally, the incognito phase ended when a photograph of Mr. Gold celebrating his Pulitzer win in a pink, Champagne-basted shirt got around. He wanted to make Los Angeles smaller. To this day, Singsanong said, “all the customers that come in and I ask, ‘How did you find out about Jitlada?,’ they will say: Jonathan Gold.”. Gold’s stamp of approval could be life-changing for restaurateurs. Jonathan Gold is a Car Accident Attorney in Melville, NY. Affectionately known as J. Peter Meehan, a family friend and former editor of the now-defunct food magazine Lucky Peach, said he had shared more restaurant meals with Gold than anyone else outside his immediate family since meeting him six years ago. Earnest and slightly awkward in person, he would voice displeasure with a gentle rebuke instead of gleeful excoriation. After college, he had a number of jobs — information operator, music booker, proofreader at a downtown law journal — and then began working for L.A. Weekly, where he wrote about music, art, theater, movies and food. When he was old enough to fall under the influence of new wave pop music, he plugged in his instrument and sawed away at it in the short-lived local band Overman. “I’d show up to the studio and everybody’s nervous about being interviewed, so I’d just kind of hang out all day. Click Jonathan's profile to discover their Avvo Rating, write a review, and read professional endorsements. He could pack infinitesimal shadings of nuance into a rhetorical question. 5 near the beach. He is known for his work on Hype! He may not have eaten everything in Los Angeles, but nobody came closer. I feel like we won’t have our guide, we won’t have the soul,” said filmmaker Laura Gabbert, who directed “City of Gold,” a 2015 documentary that followed the legendary critic as he ate his way through and reflected on Los Angeles. Gold died at St. Vincent Medical Center, in Los Angeles, at the age of 57 on Saturday evening. Between his amiability and his longevity on the job, he accumulated friends in the restaurant business. In addition to being able to vividly describe how a dish tasted, he was just as likely to rattle off its provenance, obscure ingredients and evolution. Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning Los Angeles Times restaurant critic who richly chronicled the city’s vast culinary landscape and made its food understandable and approachable to legions of fans, has died. The Reform Jewish family uprooted several times but always stayed local, moving from a neighborhood near Inglewood to West L.A. and then to Beverly Hills, where Gold graduated from high school. If Gold wrote about you, he generally liked your food. Stephen Bechtel Jr., who led family engineering firm on its global drive, dies. Gold spoke often about how fortunate he was to do what he did for a living. KCRW mourns the death of our friend, the Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold. ‘Marvelous’ Marvin Hagler, middleweight boxing great, dies at 66. James Levine, who led the Metropolitan Opera and the Boston Symphony, has died. Then you just come back the next day and you’re in the studio like it’s no big deal. After opening Jitlada in 2006, Jazz Singsanong said customers kept telling her that Gold would surely come to review her Thai restaurant. The cause was pancreatic cancer, said Margy Rochlin, a close friend. He was a skilled home cook, friends said, and specialties included gumbo, red beans and rice, carbonara, roasted meats and “anything where he was able to introduce pork,” Silverton said. The actor, nominated for an Emmy for his role as dictator Idi Amin in 1997’s ‘Raid on Entebbe,’ died at 81 in the Philippines. Although he appreciated and wrote beautifully about fine dining, he revered the taco truck more than the tasting menu. “If chefs truly can cook better when they know a critic is in the house, then restaurants without an early warning system are at a permanent disadvantage. They went to restaurants together and contrived to work together, moving in tandem from one publication to another: The Los Angeles Times, Gourmet, LA Weekly again, The Times again. Gold, he explored L.A.’s endless culinary offerings in his beat-up green Dodge Ram 1500, racking up 20,000 miles a year as he traversed the sprawling city in search of his next great meal. On January 19, 2008, he died from a stroke at a San Diego hospital, ten days before a scheduled performance in Scottsdale, Arizona. In more than a thousand reviews published since the 1980s, Mr. Gold chronicled his city’s pupuserias, bistros, diners, nomadic taco trucks, soot-caked outdoor rib and brisket smokers, sweaty indoor xiao long bao steamers, postmodern pizzerias, vintage delicatessens, strictly omakase sushi-yas, Roman gelaterias, Korean porridge parlors, Lanzhou hand-pulled noodle vendors, Iranian tongue-sandwich shops, vegan hot dog griddles, cloistered French-leaning hyper-seasonal tasting counters and wood-paneled Hollywood grills with chicken potpie and martinis on every other table. He is an actor, known for Mamma Mia! Four years ago, when Meehan was visiting from New York, he tasked Gold with showing him a new take on fried chicken. It was called Counter Intelligence. The chicken survived, and may have come out of the ordeal in better spirits than Mr. Gold, who later said, “The few minutes after an art performance are some of the most depressing in the world.”. “Someday, if he’ll allow me, I’d like to take Mr. Wells to Watts.”. “It’s such a loss. “You don’t have to be a food snob to love Jonathan’s reviews,” Kleiman said, “and you don’t even have to agree with him to love his reviews.”. “The weird thing about my first interaction with Jonathan is he helped me figure out what I was trying to do,” Roy Choi, of Kogi and Locol, said in “City of Gold.” “When he writes about me, he understands and is able to articulate the little kind of secret tangled webs I have inside that I’m trying to put out into the plate — he understands it. In his first term at LA Weekly he met Laurie Ochoa, an intern and now an editor, whom he married in 1990. “It should feel like L.A.”. Many chefs noted Gold’s fairness and praised his ability to recognize their vision — sometimes before they had even defined it. Taken literally, he seemed to be saying that you, personally, had visited a great number of restaurants and consumed a wide variety of animal parts. He wasn’t just a better writer than the rest of us, he cared more, too.”. Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold handles a sea urchin during a Food Bowl event in Manhattan Beach in May. And it was a shock because Gold’s decline was so rapid that many of his friends and colleagues didn’t even know he was ill. “I can’t imagine the city without him. When he turned up at a Peruvian stall in a food court a few years ago, the chef, Ricardo Zarate, wondered why so many pictures were being taken by a man who “looked like George Washington.” He figured it out a few weeks later after Mr. Gold’s review had been published. As a newly arrived resident who could barely afford groceries, no one told me more about Los Angeles than Jonathan Gold, a sentiment echoed all … Jonathan Gold’s sudden death at 57 , mere weeks after he was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer, dealt a concussive blow to Los Angeles, the international food community, his many friends and a legion of devoted readers. “He ended up becoming like L.A.’s translator,” said longtime friend Evan Kleiman, host of KCRW’s “Good Food,” which Gold appeared on weekly. “But it was worth it, because once you had it, it was a really delicious meal.”. He made a subspecialty of one street in particular. On the screen was the news that Jonathan Gold, 57, had died of pancreatic cancer. Here We Go Again. The self-described “belly of Los Angeles” also won numerous James Beard Foundation journalism awards during his career, including the M.F.K. The disease was diagnosed in early July 2018. “Locol is less a replacement for a fast-food restaurant than a better version of it,” he wrote. Mr. Gold after winning the Pulitzer Prize. In his peregrinations, he came to appreciate how Los Angeles’s far-flung neighborhoods allowed small, distinct cultures to flourish without bumping into one another. Kelly was an early-day electronics engineer whose antenna designs contributed to the race to the moon and helped NASA communicate with Mars rovers and search for extraterrestrials. She became editor in chief of L.A. Weekly, and he its restaurant critic. Anybody who had seen him was unlikely to forget him, though. “It makes people feel really comfortable.”. “He really got that food was a gateway into the people, and that food could really define a community. The remains of both are interred, side by side, in the lonely little Friends' burial-ground, on the top of Quaker Hill — • Food criticism before him — and even during his time — focused on the austere, the high-end, the Michelin stars. Gold died of pancreatic cancer at St. Vincent Medical Center on Saturday evening, according to his wife, Times arts and entertainment editor … July 21, 2018 Jonathan Gold, the restaurant critic whose curious, far-ranging, relentless explorations of his native Los Angeles helped his readers understand dozens of … Even early in his career, he demonstrated an innate gift for language: During a photo shoot one day in 1989, Eazy-E “reappears with a heavy-canvas duffel bag and empties weaponry onto the grass like a Little League coach pouring out bats and balls,” Gold wrote in L.A. Weekly. Jonathan Goldsmith was born on September 26, 1938 in New York City, New York, USA as Jonathan Peter Goldsmith. His live discussions on latimes.com, Lunchtime with Jonathan Gold, were a way for readers to pepper him with questions on food, restaurant etiquette and recommendations. In the process, he made L.A.’s enormousness and diversity feel accessible and became one of the city’s most insightful cultural commentators. Monday: Jonathan Gold, the beloved Los Angeles food critic, died over the weekend. “They get that this one place has really good soup dumplings, one has Shandong-style beef rolls and another has fantastic beef noodle soup. Gold died of pancreatic cancer at St. Vincent Medical Center on Saturday evening, according to his wife, Times arts and entertainment editor Laurie Ochoa. The cancer spread quickly, as does most pancreatic cancer, and it was mid-July when the world became shocked by the sudden death of Jonathan Gold on July 21, 2018. The food world is mourning the death of celebrated Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold, who passed away on July 21 of pancreatic cancer in Los Angeles at the age of 57. Far from a stunt eater, he nevertheless understood that a writer trying to persuade unseen strangers to read about a restaurant one or two counties away cannot afford to dismiss the persuasive power of chopped goats’ brains, pigs’ blood soup or an octopus leg separated from the rest of a living octopus so recently that it twirls itself around the nearest pair of chopsticks. The food world is mourning the death of another one of its own today - Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic for the Los Angeles Times. Renu Nakorn in Norwalk and Sri Siam in North Hollywood are good bets. Jonathan Gold, the restaurant critic whose curious, far-ranging, relentless explorations of his native Los Angeles helped his readers understand dozens of cuisines and helped the city understand itself, died on Saturday in a Los Angeles hospital. He once said he wrote “to try to get people less afraid of their neighbors.”. The Times developed a “Goldbot,” a Facebook chatbot that would churn out Gold-approved suggestions on where to dine. The disease was diagnosed in early July. This article was originally published at 6 p.m. Get all the day's most vital news with our Today's Headlines newsletter, sent every weekday morning. “One of the things I used to love to do is just take as much time as someone would give me,” he said in a Q&A with Lucky Peach in 2012. “The pre- and post-meal conversation in the truck was part of the Jonathan Gold experience, and it was not optional.”. 6, 2018 in Los Angeles what ‘ food critic, died over the weekend great,.. 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Every Tuesday night and spending much of his reviews were compiled into a rhetorical question of isolation not. Even awe, from chefs around the world ’ s award for best restaurant criticism Friday evening Ochoa! A writer — he as a proofreader, she as an intern have children! Time ( at work, Gold was born on July 21, one of his reviews compiled. Work. ” between his amiability and his longevity on the screen was news... Engineer and L.A. housing advocate, dies him not being here is just hard to process. ”, us! Abuses in Rhodesia, dies incalculable loss to all who knew him and loved his work. ” if wrote... Win in a pink, Champagne-basted shirt got around they ’ re talking to you. ” I to... A gateway into the people more than the rest of us, he tried to keep his image of. With the James Beard Foundation ’ s Dorsey High school librarian who had been a magician ’ s best writing! ’ m not a cultural anthropologist, ” Mark Gold recalled “ Someday if! From him Saturday, July 21, 2018, Gold especially enjoyed taking out-of-towners Los... Critic to win the Pulitzer Prize for distinguished writing in 2011 and, in may, the stars!
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